My journey to TDS started 5 years ago (!). Although truly it was 10 years ago I ran my first kilometres. I remember my excitement when I ran 3km for the first time, then 5km, then 10km and so on. For those that have not run these distances often ask how I ended up here. How I found myself at TDS is a clear example of how arriving at these races for me is part planning, part luck, and part naiveté. Even as I publish this recap 2 years later, I've just 'accidentally' found myself registered for the Big Foot 200.
Running TDS, was similarly an accident. In 2019, my boyfriend at the time, had a goal to run UTMB before he turned 30. I figured if I was going to crew I should register for whatever race would suit the week schedule, which was TDS. The idea is I would run Monday and be able to crew UTMB on Friday. The thing with UTMB is that it’s a complicated and luck-filled process to get into (unless you’re an elite and can qualify off previous results). TDS on the other hand is a less popular race of the festival, and is quite easy to get into. So year 1, I get my entry to TDS, and unsurprisingly, my ex does not get into UTMB.
Despite him not having an entry to UTMB, I still plan to race TDS. Though this is 2020, and the world has other plans. The pandemic delays my race until 2022. Years removed from racing, the end of that relationship, and a move across the country dampen my enthusiasm for this race. Though I still felt a tug to do it, because when you get an entry to a UTMB race, you go. You never know, with the qualifiers and lottery, if you'll get the chance again.
The hype of this mountain race with unfathomable elevation gain made this an intimidating race for me. I hired a coach for the first time to make sure I would make the most of this opportunity. I did two races in my lead up to TDS 2022, Wild Horse Traverse (52km) and Wy’east Howl (100km). These races were central to me finding my love for racing again. I didn’t know where races and ultras fit in my life since 2019, but these two races that included hard pushes for podium positions, and showed the results of following a program fired me up for TDS.
In a turn of bad luck, a few weeks out from race day, I broke my toe in a silly slip during a game of spike-ball. It was a complete fluke and despite hanging onto hope for the next three weeks, ended my run at TDS that year. Multiple doctors agreed that I couldn’t do further damage on my foot but healing the break would take 6 weeks. So I did what I could to stay fit thinking if the pain had lessened enough, I’d still race. With all our travel set, my friend Emma and I still went to Courmayeur and continued with our planned hike of half of the Tour du Mont Blanc. Each day we would chat about my pain level and how realistic it was to race. It wasn’t until the night before TDS was scheduled to start, I finally sent the email requesting to defer to the next year.
Emma and I enjoying hike mode.
While I was able to defer for medical reasons, I still had to re-qualify before the registration period for the 2023 race. That meant my toe healing by late September, and needing to run a qualifier of at least 80km before December. Genuinely, this race was feeling a little cursed, and I wasn't even sure I wanted to train for it for another year. 3 years deferring a race I only signed up for because of my ex-boyfriend? But my logical side figured I should at least re-qualify so I'd have options. And so I spent September doing the safest thing I could to stay fit with a broken toe - hike the grouse grind (a North Vancouver classic that’s just over 1km with 800m of gain) and gondola down. By the end of October I was banged up but ready to suffer through this 50 miler to get my qualification. I had the best partner in crime with my friend Jack to crew me. I struggled through that race, and we brushed it off with a night out in Bend, Oregon while debating the merits of signing up for TDS one more time. When the time came, I hit register, for the 3rd time.
I went through the motions of planning the perfect lead up race calendar, getting my medical forms in order, and booking accommodations. This season was different. I was used to following a training calendar and it didn’t feel like such a hurdle to get in my nearly-daily runs. With a whole extra year I had time to train more specifically, getting in more vert, tailoring and testing all my gear, and training with my full mandatory kit to get used to the heavier pack nearly every weekend.
Soon enough it was time for my first prep race, Canyons 100km. I ended up dropping out at 60km with bad knee pain. While it is a hit to your confidence to pull out of a race, the decision was ultimately easy. It wasn’t worth risking a big injury and long recovery that could take away from TDS. I recovered quickly and was able to get back to training, reinforcing it was the right call.
Then it was time for the second lead up race, Broken Goat 50km. Despite loving the race organization and the course, I had an inexplicably bad day out. I was nauseous the whole day, and generally had no “go”. While I felt my training was better than ever, these lead up races were not what I hoped for in preparation for TDS.
Some helpful words from coach, Adam Campbell, reminded me of the importance of these days to build emotional callouses. We don’t sign up for ultras because we want it to be easy. I really believe I got exactly what I needed when I needed it. I had great races in 2022 to reignite my love for the sport and show myself how good I can feel in these races. And I had hard races in 2023 to give me an opportunity to harden these emotional callouses in preparation for a possibly hard day at TDS.
My partner, Pat, and I arrived in Courmayeur on the Thursday before the race that was to start at midnight Monday. My brother, Daniel, and mama Susan met us on Friday. The focus in those days was stretching, relaxing, and eating. I had shipped a box of fuel and aid station food from Vancouver to Chamonix, so I wouldn’t have to scramble hunting down familiar fuel before the race. While it was a pricey choice, I’m still glad I did it.
Excited to find my box arrived in Chamonix!
What I thought I was going to wear
What I ended up wearing
As race day approached, the weather forecast didn’t clear and the mandatory cold weather kit came into effect. The race organizers re-routed one section of the course to avoid one of the higher mountain passes. With the PTL, the first race of the week starting, we saw images posted to social media. It showed snowy and muddy conditions on course and people with umbrellas at the start line. This was going to make things interesting.
Scenes from the course
Scenes from the course
A final pre-race call with coach re-emphasized the importance of staying comfortable. There were three things that stayed with me throughout the race and I know played a huge role in me finishing feeling as good as I did. First, cozy was the operative word. Change at the aid stations and don’t get cold. "Cozy little pain cave" became my mantra. Second, was doing everything I can to be comfortable. The second something comes to mind, don’t wait, just deal with it. As soon as I had a rock in my shoe, I took it out. When the thought popped in my head questioning putting on rain pants, I put them on. These races are inherently uncomfortable, if you're not an elite, and there are things you can control to be more comfortable, you do it. Lastly, was 3-5 minute naps can pay dividends, especially when you’re talking about a race that involves two nights of not sleeping given the midnight start.
Race day was here and I felt very confident that I had everything I needed in me and with me to have a successful race. We did a crew briefing where I walked Pat, my mom, and Daniel through what I needed at the aid stations. With a midnight start, I laid down when I was tired but never really fell asleep, and ate frequently. For lunch Pat made us pasta and mom popped champagne. I went to package pick-up and got my number. Now it was real! For dinner I had a big bowl of oatmeal and cup of coffee around 10pm. At 11pm we walked towards the start line. Despite the rainy day, we were lucky to have a dry start line. I found my way into the pack feeling excited and curious about the day ahead. At 11:50pm (our original race start time) they announced they were delaying until 12:30. There was a land slide in a nearby tunnel that re-routed all traffic to the Courmayeur - Chamonix tunnel so hundred of runners that were being shuttled from Chamonix hadn’t arrived yet. While it was frustrating to not be told of the delay until the minute we were meant to start, I am glad they held the race. Everyone had put as much into their preparations to get to this race, and it was only right we all start together. Pat had the good idea for me to sit down rather than stay standing in the corral, which most others chose to do. We huddled for warmth and I cursed eating my last pre-race gel at 11:30pm. At 12:30am they delayed again to 12:40am but then we were off!
Getting my pre-race oats and coffee down
Start line with Pat
With 1600 runners we didn’t ‘take off’, we shuffle-stepped through Courmayeur and chutes of spectators cheering, careful not to step on others or get stabbed by a nearby pole. As we started running I felt relaxed. Smiling often to be in a position to race feeling as healthy as I did. Pat and I had done the first climb together a few days prior, so I knew what was coming. Already on that climb I saw someone trouble shooting a broken pole I knew wasn’t fixable (mine broke similarly in the winter) and I felt for them knowing there was still 8900m of climbing to go. I did my first de-layer 30mins in, and re-layered within the hour. Adam's words already in my mind to stop and do what I need to do. Over this length, those moments are a lot more crucial in how I’d feel later than the seconds they took to complete.
I skipped the first aid station, hoping to be in a better position for the bottle neck I knew was coming. The wide trail turned to single track with no room to pass. I could see headlamps moving up the mountain kilometres ahead and behind like a traffic jam. I wondered whether I should be farther up but remembered coach saying it doesn’t matter if the first 8 hours are super slow. I took the gift of knowing there was no chance of blowing up early tucked in this line of ants.
I was surprised that no one was talking. Here we were walking in the darkness for hours, starting this exciting journey that had to be each of our goal races. We each had to qualify, shell out a bunch of money, and jump through hoops to get here. And yet there was no buzz in the air, no nervous chit-chat. Just one step in front of the other.
We eventually reached the second aid station before we started our first descent. I re-filled my water, changed layers, put my poles away and started on the descent. I was grateful it was a wide road so I had more choice over my speed. I tried to stay in control knowing blowing up my quads raging downhill is a real risk. Still, I passed a lot of people and was feeling great. And then my headlamp died. Realizing I was only a few hours in and had it fully charged at the start, I knew I’d have to change batteries more than I thought. I started getting anxious about having enough batteries to last the night. I texted my crew “Mas triple As!” Knowing they’d have to buy some before the first aid station.
A little mucky...
When I got to the first crewed station it was madness. A huge gym with runners and crew everywhere. No one looked to be in a rush. I found my mom and we went through our checklist. I questioned whether to put on shorts for the day or pants and texted Pat for the forecast. We decided on shorts, which in retrospect I should have known better. With pants on, I never needed my rain pants. It never rained so hard or got cold enough to need another layer, but with shorts I ended up putting on my rain pants. They checked some of our mandatory kit on the way out, and when I saw Harley and Pat outside, I passed that beta on to Harley, so he'd know what to expect for CCC. I was 50km in, feeling great and ready for the next 10ish hours without crew. I felt grateful for how smoothly the first section went and how quickly it seemed to go by. I was hopeful this next section would be more spread out and I would be able to go my own pace. I was wrong.
Passing on intel to Harley with a Snickers for each hand
While the conga lines had fewer people in them, I always found myself blocked. I’d stay behind a group until I couldn’t anymore, then would pass, only to find myself behind another line minutes later. My friend Scott joked that I may have finished hours earlier had I not had to pass the 700 people I ended up passing over the course of the race. It's impossible to know where to line up in a field of 1600, and I had clearly made a mistake.
The trails were narrow and passing was difficult, risking very uneven terrain or a steep drop. People were not quick to move over and I was still dumfounded by the lack of camaraderie on the trail. I didn’t hear a single runner thank a course marshall, and it wasn’t until 15 hours in that the first person said anything to me as I passed. I knew there wasn’t a big benefit to pushing too hard in the race so kept telling myself it was okay to be going slower behind people.
To be honest, the conga lines were exhausting, not just because you aren’t running your natural pace, but because of the mental energy of trying to decide whether or not to pass, when to pass, what to say, in what language, whether you really did want to go any faster than that, etc.
Views most of the time
The one view I got
This section had the re-route that the race organization implemented so we wouldn’t have to go over Le Passeur de Pralognan in the bad weather. Knowing someone had tragically passed away on this section years prior, I had been anxious about how technical it may be. I tried to find videos online, and had planned to recon it, but never got a chance. So I wasn't sad about not having to tackle that in this weather. This new path meant an advertised extra 8km (turned out to be 12km) but about 100m less of gain. I was grateful to still feel strong on the climb and soon we were on a road section where I could run as fast as I wanted. That’s the other interesting thing about where you settle yourself in the race. Everyone around me was walking. Whether it was downhill, flat or uphill, I rarely saw people running. Which puts in your head that you don’t have to run. We were on a very gradual road climb and I was running when I could, but when all you see is people walking it makes you think you should walk too. During this section there was a car parade of sports cars. It felt like an odd contrast, while we’re celebrating athleticism in the outdoors there’s a train of sports cars driving by right next to us. Though maybe this is fitting given the change in sponsorship to the the Dacia UTMB.
We started to climb, and the weather turned to cold rain. I had no choice but to put my rain pants over my shorts and add all my layers. By the time I got to the aid station I was very relieved for protection and warmth from the wind and hail. Everyone in the tent looked destroyed. I got some soup and decided to just take it with me, we were continuing to climb anyways. The spectators were laughing when I went strolling out with my soup.
This next section was mentally the hardest part of the course. I always look forward to long descents. So after the long ascent, I was ready to get down to the next aid station. But after hundreds of runners following a path of snow and rain, the whole descent was mud. The kind of mud that you step on and slide immediately. No grip and nowhere else to go. Like Uggs on ice. Myself and others were looking for other paths to avoid the risk of slipping and falling, but there was no other choice. I picked my way down and couldn’t help but laugh at how ridiculous this ‘race’ was when we were all tip toeing and praying not to fall.
Eventually we got to a smoother section of trail. This was one of the high moments in the race for me, as I knew I was descending to see my crew at about the 100km mark, and I felt GOOD. The one downside is that I was feeling so good but still wearing the rain pants that felt like garbage bags stuck to my now sweaty legs. As we descended it got warmer and I didn’t want to stop running to take them off.
This picture just perfectly depicts the ridiculous layering that was going on!
The 100km aid station was full of surprises. First, I was surprised to see my friend Amber yelling my name. I knew she was in Chamonix that week but didn’t expect to see her in Beaufort. I also saw a local Squamish runner, Charles, leaving the aid station. He is such a strong runner, so seeing him leaving as I was arriving, I knew something must be up. Lastly, I saw Scott, another Squamish crusher. He was coaching an athlete who I knew was anticipating finishing about 4 hours ahead of even my best case scenario time. So I was also surprised to see him still there. I was stoked to see so many people I knew and grateful again to be feeling good.
As I got into the gym it was a sea of people and it was eerily quiet. So I yelled “Is there a Pat Baylis in here?” Apparently Pat had only just started setting up and had a nice mat for me to sit on. We did our usual change over, not doing anything different from the first aid station. New anti-chaffing, new clothes, fresh headlamp, and some food. People around me looked completely wrecked. The longer I sat, the more I felt my energy dipping. Though, I headed back out confident and stoked at how strong my legs were still feeling.
Heading out of this aid station I knew I needed the bathroom and luckily before heading onto the trails passed a beautiful public tennis court with bathrooms that were open. It felt funny walking out 100km into a race with all my gear to find a nice older couple next in the bathroom line wishing me ‘courage’.
By this point in the race, I was seeing fewer and fewer people on the trail. From here, I had a long climb with an aid station at the top and then a long descent to my crew. As the light dropped I felt myself getting very tired. Easier than I expected I reached an aid station and pulled out my map. I asked the volunteers if this was ____ and they said no it was an aid station not listed on the course. I had coffee there and headed out. Soon after leaving I wished I had put on my layer and stopped to put on everything I had. It had suddenly gotten cold.
While the cold helped keep me awake, it also meant sleeping wasn’t an option. At one point I caught a runner sitting on the side of the trail and he asked me if I thought he could sleep there. I told him I didn’t think it was a good idea with the cold and he pulled out a Salomon flask filled with coffee and decided to keep going. As I kept climbing the wide dirt road, I fully believe I was sleep walking. I remember feeling so tired, and despite putting in music and having the cold air on my face, and my feet moving, I could not stay awake. I don’t think I ever stopped hiking up that hill, but I remember a few occasions turning around and seeing a headlamp approaching, then later not seeing it behind me anymore but having headlamps up ahead. I assumed runners must have passed me when I was sleeping. Another time, I woke up to headlamps in my face coming towards me. I didn’t understand why runners were pointing their headlamps at me, until I realized it was a car driving down the field. Luckily I woke up to the lights and stepped off to the side. That woke me up enough to get me to the top aid station. Getting to that aid station meant going through knee-deep mud and deeply rutted trail. This was frustrating and slow moving.
At the top of the climb we cut across what must be a pasture. It felt like a flooded bog, with all the rain and melted snow filling cow-trampled ground. The moving was slow, wet, and cold. Eventually I got to the aid station which seemed like a mountain top restaurant. It was an odd sight walking in and seeing three sets of legs sticking out from under a cabinet, that I suppose racers decided to nap underneath. I used the washroom and took the chance at a protected environment to text my crew. I rarely pulled out my phone during the race, it was buried in a full vest, inside a ziplock to protect it from the elements, and it just never seemed worth the trouble. I only sent them instructions for things I may want at the aid station that they may not expect. ‘Need both headlamps next stop’. ‘Need another change of shoes’. ‘Might want shorts’ etc.
I had some soup and prepped for the downhill.
The downhill was unmemorable, but eventually I got to Les Contamines and Amber was still with the crew. I asked Pat and Amber how much was left because with the re-route and sleepy brain, I had no idea. I had estimated 28km and they felt it was only going to be 23km. 15km to Les Houches then the 8km victory lap into Cham.
My brother, Daniel, had everything laid out at what was the quietest aid station. As I looked over, Charles was on the bench over from me with his mom as his crew. He was having trouble running the descents, but was still pushing on. I did another full change, and even tried to sleep. I knew if I had to sleep last time I left my crew, I’d definitely have to on this climb. But the atmosphere of the aid station was too hard to sleep in so I quickly gave up and just started my climb.
Sure enough as soon as I started the monotony of a climb, I started to fall asleep. I told myself that this time once I found a safe spot, I’d just take the nap. Looking at every stump and tree to lean against kept me awake for a while, and then my headlamp caught the eyes of a huge cow sleeping right on the side of the trail and I decided I’d have to be a bit more discerning about a nap spot.
Funny enough a man was walking ahead of me here and I knew looking at him that he was sleep walking, and recognized that must have been what I looked like going up that first night climb. Kind of zombie-like swaying from one side of the trail to the other. Still moving, but with no spirit at all. Eventually I came to what seemed like an apparition. A picnic table. I marched right over, sat down, turned off my headlamp, and put my head in my hands. As soon as I closed my eyes I heard a woman yell ‘Terry’, or something like that. I snapped my head up, and saw no one. I scanned, thinking this magical picnic table may have actually been on someone’s camping site, but there was no tent or person around.
This was one of many harmless hallucinations I had. Starting that second night they stayed with me, but didn’t scare me. The grass sparkling a little as my headlamp hit it, creating a beautiful dancing pattern, the signs, trees, and stumps that could have been people from the corner of my eye, or until they properly focused ahead. With a little extra thought and attention they’d take their rightful form. Although there’s a man on a rocking horse in his backyard that I’m still not sure was real or not.
So I continued up that hill, half asleep, half awake.
Once awake and heading downhill I felt strong. Though the descent was ultra technical once again. As I descended, knowing we would soon be in Les Houches, I started to negotiate with myself about those last 8km. When we had talked about pacing, I was sure I’d be walking a lot at that point. But I was feeling good. I told myself to try to run a cumulative 4km of the 8km flat section to the finish. So even if it’s a run / walk every few hundred meters, just fight for as much as I could.
I got into Les Houches and made sure to get myself in order, not making the same mistake of having too many layers at this lower elevation. I started at a run and quickly passed a handful of people. And soon enough I realized, I didn’t really need to walk. I ran nearly every step of that last 8km. The river trail was undulating and beautiful. As we got closer to Cham it was full of people out for their own shake-outs.
Eventually we hit the streets of Chamonix. I found myself awkwardly paced behind these two guys face-timing their loved ones. In retrospect I wish I had passed them, but it felt weird to do so so close to the finish. The streets were fairly empty, though people were on coffee shop patios having their morning croissants. We were trickling in so they’d notice runners and start clapping. As we entered the chute I found Pat and Amber. I pulled over to the side to let the two guys finish before I ran through myself. Had I stayed behind them I knew I’d forever be in the background of their picture, and they’d always be in front of mine. What’s an extra minute for us to each get our own moments to celebrate?
Crossing the line felt weird. The run down the mountain I realized I had no idea what to do when I got to the chute. Do I throw my arms in the air? Run through nonchalantly? Will I burst into tears? In the moment, a jump and yell came from me. Then I landed and looked around and thought ‘now what?’ The announcer and photographers were looking at me also with a look of ‘now what’. There was no celebration, no medal, no hugs. It’s been a while since I did a race that didn’t end with a hug from the race director. Luckily, my friend Scott was there to give me a high five, with his athlete Justyna finishing just minutes ahead of me.
I was joined by my family, Amber, Harley, and Pat and we took some photos together. We walked back to the hotel and everyone got a well-deserved nap after two nights of crewing and racing. We woke up, and slipped back into normal life.
A little part of me feels guilty for how unscathed I came out in this race. I finished with a lot in the tank, had few low moments beyond sleep walking, and generally had a great time despite the weather and the difficulty of the course. Ultras are supposed to be hard. We do them to challenge and test ourselves. Usually I love that feeling of going deep in the well. Of having nothing left. Of being stripped down. But honestly, I’m glad this race was ‘cozy’. I put so much into it. And it’s nice to know that when I’m that prepared, I can do this and have it feel good. That is a really empowering feeling. There is so much I’m proud of.
As always, this experience would be nothing without the people I shared it with. My mom, Daniel, Pat, Harley, and Amber were the crew on site. And seeing familiar faces in an unfamiliar place, and getting cheers from the group chat at home lifted my spirits.
I finished in 32:06:52 in 216th / 998 finishers (216 / 1649 starters), and 21/116 women finishers